We’re back on the West Coast, here’s a bit about Tennessee!

Hey y’all, sorry it’s been a while since our last post. We’re visiting Brian’s dad and step-mom in Washington and are catching up on relaxation after some long hauls.

So, last time we left our Honeymoon Two, they were making their way to Memphis.

Memphis: We found a reasonable hotel, unpacked and then headed out for a recommended chicken dinner. Uncle Lou’s wasn’t busy and we were well taken care of by the staff. We both had the spicy, honey-dipped fried chicken and it remains the best chicken we’ve had so far! Hot, crispy and dripping with a delicious, Tabasco-y juice and a subtle honey flavor.

Uncle Lou, you’ve got it going on!

OK, so, skip to the next day and after a delightful breakfast & a little thrift shopping we cruise on over to the Stax Museum and prepare to get schooled! I can’t put into words jut how touching and full-o-soul the Stax Museum experience is. You need to check it out for yourself.

Going during the off season gave us the chance to watch the movie ( a tear inducing but joyful introduction to the Stax Story) and walk (dance) through each room all by ourselves. The sound system was fantastic and the layout was smooth and groovy. All the artifacts and information available gives you a well rounded and inspirational picture of not just Stax but Motown, Muscle Shoals, Atlantic records and smaller labels. You learn about everyone from the owners, producers, writers, composers, singers and musicians. The whole Museum was done right…..plan your trip now.

Again, we vowed to come back and spend more time getting to know the area much better.

We took off for Nashville, just a couple hours away and arrived in time to go to dinner with our pals Pam and Pete. We all jumped into their rental car, bringing Gypsy (the GPS) along to guide us to a wonderful restaurant. We were served fresh biscuits and and jam and Pam and I both ordered the decadent and delicious BLT made with fried green tomatoes. The next day we all headed for the Broadway area and after breakfast it was time for another wonderful Museum experience.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum was expansive and exhaustive in detail. Beautifully laid out and and stuffed full of history. It’s much larger than Stax but nothing is lost and there’s plenty gained in four floors filled with music and information……not to mention the videos, costumes, cars and guitars ( fiddles, etc.)

We spent several hours there and then went to some wonderful record shops and bought some posters at the Hatch Show Print Shop.

Pam and Pete fell in love with Gypsy and decided they had to run out and buy one of their own. We had a blast with them but it was time yet again for us to move on.

Well, we only have a few more days of our trip left. We are heading home tomorrow and I’m not sure if we’ll post in the next few days or not. Once we get home we’ll upload more pictures and flesh out the blog. We’ve had a grand time and I look forward to writing abut it more.

Thanks to everyone for helping us make this possible! – Heidi

 

Greetings from Wyoming, here’s a bit about Clarksdale – Heidi

Hey all! It’s been a while since our last post but we’re still alive and doing great!

We’re in Sheridan Wyoming relaxing after a couple of long drives.

Here’s t short version of what we’ve been up to:

After Hot Springs Arkansas we finally made it to Clarksdale, Mississippi. Another beautiful day in a cool town and home of the famous Crossroads where Robert Johnson is said to have sold his soul to the Devil in exchange for the ability to play the blues. We arrived at the Shack-Up Inn at about 7:00pm  and were greeted by Bill, one of several cool and laid back dudes known as the Shackmeisters. He gave us directions to our shack, the Full-i-love and we were in love as soon as we saw it.

The Shack-up Inn is so unique, rustic and funky, they call it a B&B, Bed and  Beer.  Located on the old Hopson Cotton Plantation compound you will find the original Hopson Commissary, the Cotton Gin Inn (where you stay in a converted bin) or real Shot Gun Shacks that have been updated with electricity and indoor plumbing. The whole place looks much like it did when it was a working plantation and we loved walking around, talking with other guests, the owners, and soaking up the blues that seems to emanate from every building. I recommend spending some time on their website, shackupinn.com and check out their FAQ. I don’t seem to be able to write too well this morning (out of practice I guess) but their website is not only informative but hysterical.

After we made ourselves at home we went to town and had great BBQ at Abe’s another Roadfood pick. Then we checked out some blues at Ground Zero. The next day, after good coffee and conversation with a few Shackmeisters (Sorry fellas, I didn’t get your name) we checked out the great music selection and outsider art at Cat Head Gallery. If you’re ever in Clarksdale this is the place to go to early as the owner will give you the scoop on what’s going on in town and around the area. We headed outta town with a copy of the Lowlife Guide to Memphis and vowed to come back to Clarksdale and spend a lot more time.

OK, ya’ll, I’m signing off for now, the next post will be all about Memphis, here’s a teaser……spicy, honey dipped fried chicken!

 - Heidi

 

 

Cheese Gifts available here

After two nights in Chicago, and dinner in Madison,  we’re in Mauston, WI.  Soon we’ll be back on the road headed to Deadwood, SD.

Just a quick post to keep y’all updated.

 

Day8,9,10…aaaaah screw it….we’re on day 15 aready! – By Heidi

Greetings from Cleveland, Ohio!

We got in last night around 11:30pm and got a comfortable room at the Holiday Inn Downtown.

Here’s a taste of what we’ve been up to since Santa Fe. 

Texas: An absolutely delicious and meaty lunch at the Big Texan, took pictures of the Cadillac Ranch, tried to go to the Barbed Wire museum in McLean but it was closed that day.

Oklahoma: Went to Johnnie’s in El Reno for dinner, got there just before closing and had their signature hamburgers with the grilled onions smooshed right in to the burger….yum! Made it to Oklahoma City that night and after a short and disturbing stop at a hotel room filled with dead bugs (eeew!) we    sunk into bed at a VERY NICE Hilton. The next morning we ate at another wonderful Roadfood recommendation, details will come later except for this one: Tender cheese grit block.

Arkansas: Things started to look a lot greener as we left Oklahoma and headed into Arkansas. This lush and beautiful state was one of my favorites, especially nice because I really didn’t know much about it. A person on the Trip Advisor forum had suggested Hot Springs as a nice town to take pictures of vintage hotels as it has been a resort town since the ’20s with a resurgence in the ’50s. We were also delighted to discover that Roadfood sites McClard’s  BBQ as THE bet in Arkansas and some of the best BBQ period.  It was night time by the time we got to Hot Springs but even in the dark we could see there would be a lot to photograph tomorrow. A lot of hotel and motel signs and old resort charm to soak up. By this time in our trip we had stayed at a few $50.00 motels and while they were acceptable, the Hilton in Oklahoma had spoiled us and the road had run us a bit ragged so we checked into the Embassy Suites for two whole nights! Not since Bisbee had we stayed two nights anywhere and even in Bisbee we stayed in two different places so we unpacked everything and relaxed tin our  suite with complimentary popcorn and chocolate. Ahhhhhh.

After sleeping in we were ready for lunch as McClards. This family run business is always buzzing and it’s easy to see why. The staff is friendly, helpful and sincere and the food is some of the best I’ve ever had in my life.

I had the pork ribs and Brian had the chopped pork. There wasn’t anything left on our plates but the sucked dry rib bones. The coleslaw we’ve been having in these parts is so much better than the overly sweet goopy stuff you often find. This was no exception. It’s tangy, light and lightly peppery crunch is the perfect compliment to the meaty star of the plate. Also, although there was plenty of chili heat to our meals in New Mexico none of the ribs we’ve had have been tongue burners.  You get to taste the expertly prepared pork and and the sauce simply adds to the experience, never detracts. I would fly to Hot Springs Arkansas to stay at the Embassy Suites and eat at McClards and I plan to. The downtown was filled with antique stores, boutiques and some nice looking restaurants. We hit a few thrift stores and took in the scenic beauty of this very pretty town. Dinner was great at the King Kone (open ’till 9:00pm) and then it was back to our room or another good night’s sleep. We couldn’t help ourselves when we got out f the hotel by 10:45am….we headed straight back to McClards! Brian had the rib and fry with more coleslaw and a huge mound of crispy hot fries on top of his ribs. I too the advice of our waitress and ordered the Tamale Spread. I ordered the smaller portion with only one tamale topped with beans, chopped white onions, fritos, chopped pork bbq with bbq sauce and shredded cheddar cheese over the whole thing! We don’t have pictures of this meal but let me tell you, even though it was a very big portion…..it was way to good to stop eating until it was all done. I did leave the Saltine cracker garnish.

OK, I’ve written all I can write this morning. We are off to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame today and to have dinner with Brian’s pal then it’s off to Chicago! – Heidi

 

Day 7 Santa Fe, a love story.

9/15/07 We headed off for breakfast at another Roadfood favorite and boy were we delighted! Tecolote Cafe, located  just a few blocks from our motel looked packed from the outside but on entering there was plenty of room in this bustling local favorite.  We were seated in moments and then came the tough decision making. We ordered one blueberry hotcake to share and then each ordered something for ourselves. I’ll add more details about our meals when we’re home and have all the menus laid out, but for now the pictures will have to speak for us. The potatoes were a stand out and the sauces were so fully flavored. I don’t know if we’ll ever be satisfied with food in California again

Just as before, the service was prompt and friendly.

We went for an oil change and to get more Smartwater and ice for the cooler then it was off to downtown Santa Fe. Santa Fe is beautiful. There are no skyscrapers and lots of low adobe style buildings painted warm desert tones. I noticed when I picked up the free local weekly that there was something missing! There were no ”sexy” lady adds inviting you to hook up with someone special for the night…no porn!! While everyone knows I’m no prude I think that, that kind of advertising is completely inappropriate in a free paper anyone including children can pick up. I was impressed.

Parking was easy to find and we were drawn to the modern furnishings and housewares store right next to our parking place. While drooling over high priced but beautiful mid-century modern chairs we stumbled into a conversation between the clerk and another out of towner who was seeking loose leaf tea! The employee mentioned a new tea house had just opened and she gave us all directions…yay tea!

The clerk was excited since the tea house had hours later than most places, he said that Santa Fe closes up early, like 9:00pm….sound familiar Alameda?

We hightailed it over to the tea house as the last place we stayed the night before didn’t have a coffee machine so I was hurting for the good stuff. The place was easy to find and we relaxed with our iced white and black teas. They were just as delicious as Julie’s coffee and tea! After the girls behind the counter were finished running around serving beautiful looking salads and sandwiches I mentioned the place I managed and complimented them on the great tea. I was told they cold brew it overnight in the fridge….awesome, my hot tea brewing woes were over.

We kicked back for a while longer and then headed for the one place I had on my must see list in Santa Fe, Todos Santos Chocolates. The owner  offered us each a chocolate for free! Brian loved his black pepper and dark chocolate and my milk chocolate hazelnut was smooth, fresh and delicious. I had seen Todos Santos featured on t.v. a few times and remembered that they used very old chocolate molds and also many beautiful milagro shaped molds for their chocolates. The store is bursting with color and layered with decorations from many different cultures, items hanging from the ceiling and stacked artfully all over the place, a true feast for the eyes. We picked out a few fun gifts and vowed to come back to Santa Fe as soon as possible. Out of respect for store policy we took no pictures but I found a few on flickr. Just search for Todos Santos Santa Fe and you’ll find a few samples of their gorgeous chocolate and storefront.

We took of that afternoon and made it to Tucumcari New Mexico as the Sun set. We made the mistake of not making reservations for the Blue Swallow, a Route 66 institution and settled for the affordable ($33.00) and w-fi accessible Tucumcari Inn. I filled our pitcher with a 1/2 cup of Houijicha green tea and water, placed it in the fridge and we called it a night.  - Check flickr for our latest photos until we get a chance to post ‘em here. We’re in a hotel in Memphis now and looking forward to checking out the Stax Museum tomorrow. Cheers! – Heidi

 

Day 6 – Grants, Albuquerque and Santa Fe!

(9/14) On day 5 we called our friends Pam and Pete to find out when they where arriving in Nashville as we wanted to see if we could be there at the same time. They will be flying in Thursday Nov. 20th so we decided it was the perfect time to look at our map and figure out how long it would take us to get home and really nail down what we had time to do for the rest of the trip. We’ve already decided to skip Flagstaff, Austin, and New Orleans. All these places deserved more than the one day (or less) that we would be able to give them. Reluctantly we decided to skip Kansas City too as we’d be arriving from Chicago after an 8 hour drive and have to leave the next morning. None of this has been a disappointment though. We are having such a satisfying and wonderful time every day that we don’t feel we are missing out at all.

So, we started our day at the Roadfood approved Eagle cafe, just a few blocks down the same street as our hotel. I had a to order a second serving of the guacamole as it was soooo good! Chock full of jalapeno peppers and perfect inside my quesadilla. We took a friendly stroll around Gallup and headed off to Albuquerque.

Our next stop was Grants, New Mexico to stretch, take some pictures of Route 66 Motels, and see if the Uranium Cafe was open. The cafe was closed but the town was charming and we got a good leg stretch on.

Arriving in Albuquerque we saw a lot of closed old motels including the one recommended in Road Trip USA that was looking overgrown and kinda sad. We hightailed it to Model Pharmacy another Roadfood recommendation but as it was ten minutes to 5:00pm they were just about to close. Their soda fountain had closed at 4:30pm. But the clerk was very outgoing and sweet. He suggested places to eat in town and let us look around at all the high end bath and body goodies they had stocked, a nice selection plus your usual pharmacy needs. We have found that not only do many places close early but others are closed for the season. But traveling off season has been an excellent introduction to traveling the U.S. and we couldn’t be any happier.

So, we grabbed dinner at another 66 landmark, Mac’s La Sierra, for a great dinner and a long and informative conversation with the security guard once we made it back t the truck.  He noticed the California plates and we started to chat about where we were from and he said he’d lived in Sacramento and helped in construction after the Oakland hills fires. He’d been coming to Mac’s since 1952 when they opened and he showed us were all the old motels used to be on that main strip of town. He was a darling fella, showed us the easiest route back on to the freeway and we were off the Santa Fe.

A short one hour drive north and we started to see this huge storm cloud off to our right as we headed into town. I took about a billion pictures as we seemed to be heading straight for it! As we got much closer I finally saw lightning striking right in the heart of the cloud…….cool!

We took  the Cerrillos street exit as recommended by several people we came in contact with. Downtown Santa Fe has several swank hotels and Cerrillos was supposed to be the place to get a reasonably priced one and see vintage motels too. It was starting to get dark and there were many old motels to choose from. We settled on the Thunderbird Motel as it advertised free wi-fi The pool was empty but the room was clean and the wi-fi worked. It wasn’t swank or filled with vintage charm but it was absolutely fine for $60.00.  We were both looking forward to seeing Sana Fe in the daytime and the storm cloud didn’t ever get to us so it was time to call it a night.

 

Another quick update

Greetings from Clarksdale, Mississippi!  We are currently shacked up at the Shack Up Inn, and staying in the Fullilove Shack. The previous two night we spent in Hot Springs, AR just to take a break from the road and kick back. I also didn’t hurt that the best BBQ joint in Arkansas is located there.

Tonight we ate at the famous Abe’s, located at the equally famous crossroads, then we went downtown to catch the music at Ground Zero. Tomorrow we head up to Memphis and see what we can find.

 

Day 5 – Giddy up to Gallup New Mexico – By Heidi

(9/13)  After packing up and taking loads of pictures at the Wigwams we drove a few blocks to a Joe and Aggies Cafe  and had a good breakfast. Before leaving Arizona we decided to check out the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert as we hadn’t really done the Touristy thing yet. The Petrified Forest is a bit underwhelming but after a bit of a drive you come to the Painted Desert and it is lovely and vast. The highlight of the trip came at the end when we got to take photos of the newly renovated Painted Desert Inn. A landmark of Route 66 in the ’20s and ‘30 and now a Museum. Brian and I both loved the landscape in Arizona but were excited to make it to the next state so it was off to Gallup New Mexico!

We pulled into Gallup that evening and where greeted enthusiastically by the night clerk at the Beautiful El Rancho Motel/Hotel. The El Rancho is a MUST for anyone traveling in this direction. Although it was huge compared to the places we had been staying it was rather quiet and still maintained a warm and homey charm.  The whole place was filled with autographed celebrity photos and lot’s of old west charm. We stayed in the Lee Remick room on the third floor. Our room was large and comfortable, and we got to sleep in a King sized bed! As a side note, EVERY place we have stayed at so far has been well it, has had plenty of hot water, good water pressure,been clean and our hosts have all been very,very nice. We’ve felt safe and very welcome at each destination.  

After a decent dinner at their restaurant we took a stroll to capture the local neon at night. There were some nice signs down the street but the real star of the neon sign show was the El Rancho its self! Not only is it lovely but there is a ton of it! Brian took loads of pictures and then we headed back to our room excited to get up the next morning to try the Eagle for breakfast. Our first Roadfood recommended destination.

 - I’m writing this post from a Hilton Garden Inn on Monday morning 9-17,  in Oklahoma City. We decided to take a break from the spotty wi-fi of the last few days and stay somewhere that we could update the blog and sleep in a luxuriously comfortable bed. We’ll update again when we’re able. Cheers!

Photos to be posted later

 

Day 4 – Holbrook or Bust – By Heidi

(9/12)  After another delicious meal at Dot’s Diner, Brian an I met up with Penny at her place. She had set out two sweet little Sculpy Owls she’d made so that we could paint them and take them home! We sat right down and got to painting and got another chance to hang out with miss Penny. I also did laundry and made tea. I’ve brought along plenty (I hope) of loose leaf tea from work to keep properly caffeinated while drinking delicious tea rather than the usual watered down stuff that you find at many diners.

After our art projects dried we all headed over to check out the space that will be Penny’s art studio. Her friends are opening a gallery by October and her studio space is nice and big. I can’t wait to see the place when it’s all finished!

In the afternoon we finally said our goodbyes and headed towards Holbrook. Ken over at the Shady Dell had suggested a different route than we had originally planned and we took it.

We came across a breathtakingly beautiful canyon and drove right into then out of the heart of it. We didn’t  get any good pictures of it as I was overwhelmed by the beauty and also a little afraid to open the window and maybe drop the camera or something.

We made it to the Wigwams by about 8:30pm and easily settled into our next vintage lodging and first Historical Route 66 digs. The place was comfortable and decorated sweetly. It was also ANOTHER night of twin beds, we had to laugh. We relaxed and settled in for the night.

 

Quick Progress Update

Here it is, Day 6 and we’re currently at the Thunderbird Inn in Santa Fe, New Mexico.  We keep meaning to write some detailed posts, but strangely enough we keep finding other things to do besides sit at a computer and type.

Here is a recap of where we’ve been so far:

Day 1: Coral Sands Inn – Palm Springs, California
Day 2: Casa de Crane – Bisbee, Arizona
Day 3: Shady Dell – Bisbee, Arizona
Day 4: Wigwam Motel – Holbrook, Arizona
Day 5: El Rancho – Gallup, New Mexico
Day 6: Thunderbird Inn – Santa Fe, New Mexico

We sat down with a map last night and figured out how we want to proceed.  It looks like Austin and New Orleans are out for now.  We just couldn’t justify the drive to these places to only be able to spend about a half day looking around.  We’re going to fly in at a  future time and spend quality time in these locations.

We’ll be sure to try an keep everyone updated, and we’ll upload more photos soon.